A Surrealist SS18 from Kiko Kostadinov

Kiko Kostadinov unveiled SS18 at last week's London Fashion Week Men's marking the fourth collection from the ambitious St Martins graduate. Entitled Funny How Secrets Travel, the eerie setting–all concrete, metal and abandoned elevators–set the scene for this sharply surreal take on Kostadinov's signature tailoring. Transforming tech fabrics, including waterproof Loro Piana nylon wool, into carefully cut uniforms inspired by Charles Freger's photographic study Bleus de Travail, a bold colour palette included "Toxic Chartreuse," oxblood, and clean stone grey, shades referencing Julian Charriere's Future Fossil Spaces. Calling out David Lynch and Francis Dolarhyde in "Manhunter," the designer, the subject of a recent intelligence feature, pulled on a series of dark sources for a collection both "subversive and perturbing." Utility with a sinister edge, a high-collar twist on a forensic boiler suit summed up the mood. Wearable from start to finish, the show also highlighted a forthcoming Asics footwear collaboration that is no doubt a future bestseller.